Itea Henry's Garnet

After back filling and lightly compacting the 50/50 mix of existing soil and compost give the Itea Henry’s Garnet a good deep watering. This is not to be rushed. Most of the water you put on the plant at first will run away from the plant until the soil is soaked. A general rule of thumb is to count to 5 for every one gallon of pot size. For example a one gallon pot would be watered until you count to 5 a three gallon pot would be 15 and so on. Check the plant daily for the first week or so and then every other day there after. Water using the counting method for the first few weeks. Gator bag Jr. can be used to help aid in this process and also provide plants with a good soaking due to the slow release of the water into the root-zone of the plant. Soaker Hoses can also be used to water when planting a long hedge.

Iteas such as Itea Henry’s Garnet grow best if they are fertilized lightly in the spring once frost has passed with a well-balanced, extended-release, fertilizer such as espoma Shrub-tone. Fertilize Itea Henry’s Garnet again 6 to 8 weeks later to encourage extra flowers or faster growth of young shrubs.

Either chemical fertilizers or organic matter can be used successfully with Iteas. Since an organic method of applying manure and/or compost around the roots, produces excellent results and also improves the condition of the soil, this would be an excellent first line of attack. Organic additions to the soil can also be combined with a shot of chemical fertilizer for maximum effect.

If chemical fertilizers are used on your Itea Henry’s Garnet, applying a slow-release, balanced fertilizer such as Espoma Plant-tone once a year is probably the simplest solution. There are many slow-release fertilizers on the market. If you can find a fertilizer formulated for shrubs and trees, this fertilizer would work well on Iteas. However, slow-release is certainly not the only way to fertilizer Iteas such as Itea Henry’s Garnet. A less expensive fast release fertilizer such as a 10-10-10 will work just as well if applied twice during the early spring and early summer. If you are looking for a fertilizing routine tailored to your specific conditions, a soil sample should be taken and the fertilizer and trace elements matched to the needs of your soil.

Don’t fertilize Itea Henry’s Garnet after August. Fall is the time for Iteas to begin preparing for dormancy. Fertilizing at this time may stimulate new growth that will be too tender to withstand the winter. In the South, a late May application and another in July would be about right. More northern areas may wish to fertilize only once in June or July.

The amount of chemical fertilizer used per plant will vary with the size of the plant and it’s root system. (Use less fertilizer for gardenias in a container.) Over-fertilization can be much more detrimental than under-fertilization. “Fertilizer burn” can occur when too much fertilizer is applied, resulting in a drying out of the roots and damage or even death of the Itea Henry’s Garnet. It is much, much better to err on the side of too little fertilizer than too much. When roots are burned, the first sign is often scorched looking leaves. If over-fertilization is severe, the plant may just wilt and die.

If a liquid fertilizer such as Jacks Classic is used for Itea Henry’s Garnet, it should be applied every month during the spring and early summer for both plants in pots and in the ground.

If you are a beginner at growing plants Itea Henry’s Garnet is very easy to grow however it may be helpful to know that a very small plant which is planted in the ground will take about 1/8 – 1/4 cup of fertilizer. When fertilizing gardenias in pots, be careful to apply a fertilizer that will not burn the roots (such as a slow release or a liquid fertilizer). A very large shrub in the ground will take 2 – 3 cups spread around the drip line of the branches (not next to the trunk). This is a very loose estimate, so please read the directions on the fertilizer before applying it.

Never fertilize a plant with a chemical fertilizer if the plant looks sick or wilted. If a plant is struggling due to a disease or root problems, the fertilizer will only add stress to it’s life. Try to cure the problem before adding fertilizer.

Understanding Fertilizer Labels:

When looking at most fertilizers, they are described by three numbers on the bag. An example would be 10-10-10 or 12-4-8. The first of these three numbers refers to Nitrogen, which is the primary element necessary for good, balanced growth within the Itea Henry’s Garnet. Plants that are deficient in Nitrogen are usually not growing vigorously, and sometimes exhibit pale colored foliage as in the case of iteas. Not all Nitrogen deficiencies result in stunted growth. Sometimes, the growth is taller and longer with less than desirable branching when Nitrogen is deficient. The second number in the fertilizer equation is representative of Phosphorus. A deficiency of Phosphorus may affect the energy transfer in the plant, and result in stunted growth as well. Also, plants with insufficient amounts of Phosphorus may have poorer root systems. Potassium is the element represented by the third number on the fertilizer bag. Plants that are deficient in Potassium, are usually growing more slowly than normal, have fewer flowers and seed, and are more susceptible to disease than plants with adequate levels of Potassium. Although the three elements just mentioned are the major elements necessary for good plant performance, there some minor elements that are just as important in consideration of plant nutrition.

Minor elements that are not included in the three numbers listing on the front of fertilizer bags are very important considerations when choosing your plant fertilizer. Elements such as Magnesium, Sulfur, Calcium, Iron, Manganese, Copper, Zinc, Boron, and Molybdenum play very important roles in providing plants with adequate nutrition. Many times, less expensive fertilizers are sold that contain only the major elements needed, but not the minor elements. Always be sure to look on the fertilizer label on the back of the bag to see exactly what is included in the fertilizer.

In choosing the basic type of fertilizer for your Itea Henry’s Garnet, it is important to determine what you want your Itea Henry’s Garnet to do. If your plants are well established, and you are not concerned about more growth, choose a fertilizer that has a smaller first number, and a larger second and third number.

When you have selected your fertilizer and are ready to apply it, be sure to rake your mulch back to the drip line of each plant. Apply the fertilizer according to the label directions immediately on top of the soil, and be sure to water the plant thoroughly after the application. You can then rake the mulch back around the base of the Itea Henry’s Garnet. Although it is tempting to spend less time by not raking the mulch back during fertilization, the results will be less than desirable, if the fertilizer is applied on top of the mulch.

Proper fertilization of your Itea Henry’s Garnet will lead to healthier and more disease resistant plants, as well as provide you with many more enjoyable blooms. Always, read the label on your fertilizer bag, and follow the instructions.

We highly recommend that you mulch your Itea Henry’s Garnet with either a ground hardwood mulch or a ground cypress mulch depending on your local availability. Any type of mulch will do but cypress or hardwood mulch will be of a higher quality and provide better nutrition overall as they breakdown. Mulching helps to keep weeds away which will compete with your new investment for water and nutrients. A 2 to 3 inch layer of mulch is sufficient but remember to take care not to cover any part of the stem of the plant with mulch. Its better to leave a one inch gap of space between the mulch and the stem or trunk of the plant.

Itea virginica Henry’s Garnet commonly known as Virginia sweetspire is native to the eastern United States. This deciduous shrub is known for its brilliant fall display of dark burgundy foliage and long, drooping spires of white flowers in late spring to early summer. The flowers bloom on the previous season’s growth, so you must wait to prune until blooms expire to avoid cutting off the developing flower buds.

In general gardening terms, pruning is probably the most misunderstood gardening chore, and certainly, the chore that is most likely neglected. When we specifically look at pruning with regards to Iteas, this misunderstanding and negligence can be magnified.

Pruning has been described as a “combination of art and science.” I find pruning to be one of the most relaxing yet rewarding chores in the garden. Pruning a specific plant to look a specific way, involves art in creating a unique definition for a specific plant, and it involves science in understanding the physical growing habits of the plant to be pruned.

The most important reason for pruning Iteas is to improve the overall health of the plant which in turn will reward you with a plethora of blooms. Many times, iteas that have not been pruned in a few years will develop dead or degenerative twigs. Removing the dead and dying limbs will minimize the possibility of diseases such as “dieback” and will also allow the plant to re-concentrate its energies and produce flowers.

Another reason for pruning Itea Henry’s Garnet is many times, a plant may outgrow its intended size in the landscape, and must be pruned to re-define its purpose. Pruning should always be associated with re-invigorating a plant by allowing it to focus its energies on producing more vigorous branches, foliage, and flowers.

Specific plant objectives require specific pruning techniques. If an Itea Henry’s Garnet is being trained as a hedge , it would need to be pruned differently than if it were being grown as a shrub form. Screenings and hedges of gardenias would need to be pruned for their specific purpose within the landscape.

It is also important to understand the specific growing characteristic of a certain Iteas when pruning that particular plant.

When pruning established Iteas where no labeling is present on a variety to identify it, you need to look at the general growth patterns of the plant to be pruned. These observations should give you a good idea of how the plant tends to grow, and also how and when you should prune the plant.

If severe, pruning is necessary, it must be realized that the plant will shift its focus in the short-run from setting flower buds to growing vigorously, and it is very likely that the Itea Henry’s Garnet will have few if any bloom buds during the season following the major pruning. During the second season following the severe pruning, the gardenia should resume normal bud setting, and the plant should have healthier blooms because of the increased vigor in the plant.

It is important to always use sharp tools when pruning Itea’s or any plant for that matter. Knives, hand cutters, saws, and shears should be sharpened if necessary before pruning any plant. A sharp cut will heal quicker than a jagged cut, which will also minimize the likelihood of disease investing a cut during pruning. It is generally recommended to not use power equipment such as gas hedgers to prune Iteas.

Pruning large Itea’s may be minor or major. Its general purpose is to maintain or restore vigor to the plant. Large Itea Henry’s Garnet that have been severely pruned have the advantage of a large root system that has excessive capacity, and its roots are capable of supplying all of its energies to a smaller number of branches and foliage. This enables the plant to increase its vigor, and become healthier. Pruning large itea’s that are well established will enable the plant to have continued vigor, and lead to many more years of supplying beauty to the landscape.