Blue Pacific Juniper

After back-filling and lightly compacting the 50/50 mix of existing soil and compost, give the Blue Pacific Juniper a good, deep watering. This is not to be rushed. Most of the water you put on the plant at first will run away from the plant until the soil is soaked. A general rule of thumb is to count to 5 for every one gallon of pot size. For example, a one-gallon pot would be watered until you count to 5; a three-gallon pot would be 15; and so on. Check the plant daily for the first week or so and then every other day there after. Water using the counting method for the first few weeks. Gator bag Jr. can be used to help aid in this process and also provide plants with a good soaking due to the slow release of the water into the root-zone of the plant. Soaker Hoses can also be used to water when planting a long hedge.

Blue Pacific Juniper Shrubs are one of the easiest to grow and one of the most underused ornamentals available today. In order for Blue Pacific Juniper to give their maximum performance, certain fertilization requirements must be met. Despite their fast growth patterns, Junipers are considered to be light feeders. Although many well established Blue Pacific Juniper perform wonderfully in the garden without being fertilized, they will do even better with a regular fertilization program. Apply an early spring fertilizer with a product such as Espoma Tree-tone or Plant-tone at the recommended rate this will give the plant a boost of nitrogen that will be needed for healthy abundant foliage. Follow this up with a early summer application of Espoma Holly-Tone, this will provide the necessary nutrients and raise the acid level in the soil which junipers favor. Espoma products are easy to use, just sprinkle around the base of the plant and water it in. Be careful with products such as miracle-grow as these products can burn newly planted plants when not used at the recommended rates. Slow-release fertilizer can help prevent rapid sucker growth that is vulnerable to diseases and insects. In choosing the basic type of fertilizer for your Blue Pacific Juniper needs, it is important to determine what you need your juniper to do. If your plants are well established, and you are not concerned about more growth, choose a fertilizer that has a smaller first number, and a larger second and third number. For example, a 4-8-8 fertilizer with minor elements included would be a good choice for a well established juniper. If your juniper are younger plants, and you want them to concentrate their energies on growing for a few years, you may wish to choose a fertilizer that has a higher first number such as 12-4-8 or 10-10-10. Be sure that these fertilizers have minor elements as well. No matter what fertilizer you choose, “Always Read the Label”. Do not apply more fertilizer than is recommended on the label. Organic fertilizers such as Dehydrated Cow Manure or Milorganite may provide an excellent source of slow release nutrients in addition to your primary fertilizer. In the southeastern United States, three fertilizer applications per year are usually adequate to supply your Blue Pacific Juniper nutritional needs. Generally, an application sometime during the first part of March, followed by a second application during the first part of May, and a final third application during the first part of July should be sufficient for you juniper fertilization needs. Always consult your Extension Service and your local nursery experts as to specific recommendations of fertilizers for your area. If you do not have acid soil, soil tests may be necessary followed by ph adjustments. Blue Pacific Juniper generally do well in acidic soils with ph readings from 5.5 to 6.8. If the ph of your soil is not correct, it may affect the ability of your juniper to absorb the fertilizer that is applied. It would not be a bad idea to have a soil sample checked with your local Extension Service before applying fertilizer. When you have selected your fertilizer and are ready to apply it, be sure to rake your mulch back to the drip line of each plant. Apply the fertilizer according to the label directions immediately on top of the soil, and be sure to water the plant thoroughly after the application. You can then rake the mulch back around the base of the Blue Pacific Juniper. Although it is tempting to spend less time by not raking the mulch back during fertilization, the results will be less than desirable, if the fertilizer is applied on top of the mulch. Proper fertilization of your Blue Pacific Juniper will lead to healthier and more disease resistant plants, as well as provide you with many more enjoyable blooms. Always, read the label on your fertilizer bag, and follow the instructions.
A short Course on Fertilizers:
When looking at most fertilizers, they are described by three numbers on the bag. An example would be 10-10-10 or 12-4-8. The first of these three numbers refers to Nitrogen, which is the primary element necessary for good, balanced growth within the plant. Plants that are deficient in Nitrogen are usually not growing vigorously, and sometimes exhibit pale colored foliage. Not all Nitrogen deficiencies result in stunted growth. Sometimes, the growth is taller and longer with less than desirable branching when Nitrogen is deficient. The second number in the fertilizer equation is representative of Phosphorus. A deficiency of Phosphorus may affect the energy transfer in the plant, and result in stunted growth as well. Also, plants with insufficient amounts of Phosphorus may have poorer root systems. Potassium is the element represented by the third number on the fertilizer bag. Plants that are deficient in Potassium, are usually growing more slowly than normal, have fewer flowers and seed, and are more susceptible to disease than plants with adequate levels of Potassium. Although the three elements just mentioned are the major elements necessary for good plant performance, there some minor elements that are just as important in consideration of plant nutrition. Minor elements that are not included in the three numbers listing on the front of fertilizer bags are very important considerations when choosing your plants fertilizer. Elements such as Magnesium, Sulfur, Calcium, Iron, Manganese, Copper, Zinc, Boron, and Molybdenum play very important roles in providing plants with adequate nutrition. Many times, less expensive fertilizers are sold that contain only the major elements needed, but not the minor elements. Always be sure to look on the fertilizer label on the back of the bag to see exactly what is included in the fertilizer.

We highly recommend that you mulch your Blue Pacific Juniper Shrubs with either a ground hardwood mulch or a ground cypress mulch depending on your local availability. Any type of mulch will do but cypress or hardwood mulch will be of a higher quality and provide better nutrition overall as they breakdown. Mulching helps to keep weeds away which will compete with your new investment for water and nutrients. A 2 to 3 inch layer of mulch is sufficient but remember to take care not to cover any part of the stem of the plant with mulch. Its better to leave a one inch gap of space between the mulch and the stem or trunk of the Blue Pacific Juniper.

In general gardening terms, pruning is probably the most misunderstood gardening chore, and certainly, the chore that is most likely neglected. When we specifically look at pruning with regards to sacococca, this misunderstanding and negligence can be magnified. Pruning has been described as a “combination of art and science.” Pruning a specific plant to look a specific way, involves art in creating a unique definition for a specific plant, and it involves science in understanding the physical growing habits of the plant to be pruned. They can be planted to create a low hedge or used in the border as specimens or en masse to create a wave of color.

Being dense evergreen shrubs, they can even be employed to disguise ugly areas, such as dustbin or bicycle stores. And they can be extremely effective grown in pots, perhaps alongside some flowering heathers, placed in a prominent position when they come into flower in the winter, to brighten up the front of a house or patio. The most important reason for pruning Blue Pacific Juniper Shrubs is to improve the overall health of the plant.

Many times, Blue Pacific Juniper that have not been pruned in a few years will develop dead or degenerative twigs. Removing the dead and dying limbs will minimize the possibility of diseases such as “dieback” and will also allow the plant to re-concentrate its energies. In many instances, Blue Pacific Juniper Shrubs that have been neglected for a number of years will become infested with insects such as scale. Severely pruning such infested Blue Pacific Juniper will not only re-invigorate the plant, but will also reduce insect problems and minimize corrective treatments necessary to eliminate such problems.

Another reason for pruning Blue Pacific Juniper is to re-define the plant’s definition within the landscape. Many times, a plant may outgrow its intended size in the landscape, and must be pruned to re-define its purpose. Pruning should always be associated with re-invigorating a plant by allowing it to focus its energies on producing more vigorous branches, foliage, and flowers.

It is also important to understand the specific growing characteristic of a certain plants when pruning that particular plant. When pruning established junipers where no labeling is present on a variety to identify it, you need to look at the general growth patterns of the plant to be pruned. These observations should give you a good idea of how the plant tends to grow, and also how you should prune the plant.

Many times, gardeners inherit a wealth of shrubs in their gardens when they purchase a previously owned residence. Although these plants may have been lovingly cared for by the previous owner, it may be necessary to severely prune these plants to restore vigor or to create a different definition in the landscape for the new owner of the property. Severe pruning should be done just after the plant has finished blooming.

In some instances where the required pruning would be drastic, the pruning may be done towards the end of summer even if the plant has not finished blooming. Severe pruning of Blue Pacific Juniper is generally thought to involve the removal of one third to one half of the existing plant. However, in some instances, this severe pruning could be even more drastic. In most cases, the plant should have no problem recovering from such a major pruning, and the pruned plant should quickly begin to grow with vigor.

It is important to always use sharp tools when pruning plants. Knives, hand cutters, saws, and shears should be sharpened if necessary before pruning any plants. A sharp cut will heal quicker than a jagged cut, which will also minimize the likelihood of disease infecting a cut during pruning.

It is generally recommended to not use power equipment such as gas hedgers to prune Blue Pacific Juniper. Prune limbs flush to the feeder branches without leaving "nubs". These leftover branches could eventually provide host for disease to enter your Blue Pacific Juniper. Many gardeners apply a pruning sealant or paint to all cut surfaces after pruning, but that practice is generally not necessary.

Small, evergreen, groundcover shrubs are hard to find in the landscape, but this Blue Pacific Juniper fits the bill with its cooling blue foliage in the summer. This plant may also be used as a ground cover. Blue Pacific Juniper grows best in full sun locations protected from hot afternoon sun. It prefers a rich, moist to well-drained soil, but will tolerate sandy locations and clay if the drainage is adequate. Once established it is drought-tolerant. It is slow to become established, often taking a couple of years to settle in.

Little pruning is needed other than the occasional removal of dead or broken branches. In severe and sudden cold snaps it can defoliate, but it will leaf out in spring. Prune in spring after flowering to maintain attractive shape.

Nursery pot sizes are called gallon sizes. You’ll see one-gallon, two-gallon, etc. This can be misleading to gardeners as a one-gallon pot would lead you to believe that the pot would hold one gallon of milk. This is not the case. Gallon is just a term of reference leftover from the days of nurseries growing plants in metal containers.

• 1-gallon (#1) pot for example, can hold 3 quarts of soil yet they are still considered a 1-gallon pot.
• 2-gallon (#2) pot holds 1.5 gallons of soil
• 3-gallon (#3) pot holds 2.9 gallons of soil
• 5-gallon (#5) pot holds 4.9 gallons of soil

What you actually should be concerned with is the dimensions of the pot rather than capacity because let’s face it the size of the hole you dig is dependent on the dimensions, not the capacity.

These are approximate measurements and dimensions vary from manufacturer to manufacturer but all dimensions fall in the following specifications.

• 1 Gallon Pot - 6.5 to 7.5 inches wide by 7 to 8 inches deep
• 2 Gallon Pot - 8.5 to 9.5 inches wide by 8 to 9 inches deep
• 3 Gallon Pot - 10.5 to 11.5 inches wide by 9.5 to 10.5 inches deep
• 5 Gallon Pot - 12 to 13 inches wide by 11 to 12.5 inches deep

These are approximate measurements and they do vary from supplier to supplier.